This is definitely a rapid succession of surprises from the Spring/Summer 2014 runways.
After Rick Owens’ performance, the unexpected new mood of Christian Dior, the visionary inspiration of Lagerfeld’s for Fendi and the Gianfranco Ferrè’s going back to basis, this is the time for a very different Riccardo Tisci.
The Givenchy S/S 2014 collection is a crush of two different cultures: Japanese and African. Unlike the past collection, this one experiment something new, as Mr. Tisci anticipated in the backstage “it was time to do something different”.
Dresses draped in different ways, deconstructed jackets, long skirts with deep slits in the front, overlaps of different lengths, combination of glossy and matte texture, these were the focal point of the first half of the collection.
The Japanese inspiration is shown in the Kimono suits with twisted lapels and flaring sleeves. The silhouettes of the suits are soft and comfortable: under the jacket comes out a medium length shirt on top of baggy pants, giving both casual and elegant image to the look.
The dresses in stretch jersey are draped in vertical and horizontal direction, some pieces have a one-shoulder asymmetrical cut and other have deep necklines, the manufacturing bras are exposed.
The first garments were jersey silk and cotton in ton on ton colors like black, deep blue, brown with just a touch of red and orange, and by the end they were awash in pastel embroidery, ethnical print or pleated and strewn with sequins changing quickly in a flashy look.
It’s a totally new territory for the Maison, but it seems to be a great start.
By Barbara Boni
VIP LUXURY SERVICE CLUB 