Fashion Stylist unveils Dior, Schiapparelli and Atelier Versace Couture Collections

Finally the best period of the year: the couture in Paris.

The first day of show has starded and some of the the biggest name in the fashion industry has come down in the catwalk.

Monday was the day of Christian Dior, Schiaparelli and Atelier Versace.

The couture collection of the Spring 2014 was strongly by the cutwork: there are overlays, and veils af sheer silk covering polka-dots sheaths. In this collection Mr. Simons definitely confirm he’s technical knowledge with a great combination of technique and psychology that could have been tailor-made to satisfy his obsessions.

The designer is giving to the Maison Dior something new, as he already said during the fall show, he wants to make a step towards the change of the reality that surround us. But in fashion, there are cornerstone that should not be change: as the one that the Couture collection have to be spectacular. Unfortunately this would just be a nice ready-to-wear collection. Designing for  Christian Dior Couture is an important commitment, everybody is expecting to be impressed and this time did not happened. We understand that the work of Raf Simon as the successor the great John Galliano -who we all really missed- isn’t definitely easy.

A more disappointing show was the couture collection of Schiaparelli. The designer Marco Zanini has definitely proved himself that he is not ready to be measure up to the memories of Elsa Schiparelli. Down in the catwalk some great look have followed, as the supremely elegant chiffon skirt with the matching blouse or the extremely extravagant paillette-encrusted brocade bodysuite under a silk chiffon robe de chamber. The all collection is full of vivid prints, gorgeous embroidery and spectacular jackets. But all these is not enough, is good not extraordinary as it was supposed to be. Zanini didn’t really construe the heart of the Maison and execute the soul of Ms. Schiaparelli. The collection is not coordinated, it has no purpose. The tenets and the mainpieces of the Maison returns, but it is as if they were not set and couldn’t find their comfortable position in a sequence of looks that seem to come from different fashion shows.

The main point is that when a designer has the chance of his life and the honor to be chosen to work for Maisons as Schiaparelli or Dior, he must celebrate the memories of the incomparable designer who founded the brand and get inspired by them, over looking to the future but bearing in mind the their soul.

But in the end we can say “thanks God there is Donatella!”

We don’t know what she was thinking while she was designing the new Atelier Versace collection, if she was inspiring to herself or to all the powerful woman. But we definitely know that the strength, the elegance and fierce on that catwalk inspire all us to bring out the best we have to be as powerful as Donatella want us to be.

This collection was spectacular, some masterpieces follow each other and you could take off your eyes from one just because another was coming down the catwalk. The opening tailleur is just breath-taking, the skirt was draped black silk jersey studded with a gris of Swarovsky crystal and the jacket was as structured as a suit of armor with a rhinestone-embroidered hood. Every detail is made with special attention as the anatomical seaming on cocktail dresses picked out in stone and outlined in tiny metal chains, and geometric back cutouts flanking a lacing detail that ran up the spine. The graphic tattoo motifs were stitched in crystals onto the sheer tulle of a top worn with a very un-Versace voluminous ball skirt.  Donatella certainly relished pointing out the cropped black Perfecto that closed the show. Made from tiny pieces of leather sewn onto georgette, the jacket weighed next to nothing, a feat only a couture atelier could pull off.

What can we say, this is Couture, this is what Paris Fashion Week needs and this is more then we expect.

Thank you Donatella!

Our Personal Shopper in London suggests you the Tuxedo Look

It was the 1975 when the great Helmut Newton created the androgynous trend with his photograph of a model on a midnight Paris street wearing an Yves Saint Laurent  Smoking, in that night an iconic fashion look was born.

This season designers revoked the androgynous, seductive and classic masculine style proposing amazing tuxedo jacket. The proposal are in glossy black satin or in soft velvet, in any case it is the fashion’s favourite evening jacket that always seduces us all and has the power to inject a little black magic into your after-hours look.

Here we want to reveal the best tux for the season to come, they are – at least – a must have piece in you wardrobe.

First of all the tuxedo tailoring is Saint Laurent’s calling cart, this in particular is an exquisite example from the label’s fall runway. It is cut from black wool-crepe and detailed with satin lapels, strictly with padded shoulders and a high-cut front.

For an amazing fit the Alexander McQueen’s blazer is the perfect combination of plush velvet offset and satin-twill on the lapels. The accentuated shoulders emphasizes the shape and the slim fit.

The best for the last, the Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing creates for this season the indispensable black wool tuxedo jacket. From the squared-off, padded shoulders to the elongated length, this satin trimmed piece exudes directional cool. It can be worn with the waist defining belt or open for a more relaxed look. Just perfect.

For a stunning effect, match the tuxedo jacket with precious skinny pants like the Stella Mc Cartney and a light shirt by Alexander Mc Queen or the amazing satin jumpsuit by The Row. With Giuseppe Zanotti’s striking pump in black patent with a suede cone heel and pointed toe and the CHANEL Parfumed Bottle Evening Bag all eyes will be captured.

 

Vip Luxury Service launches the most exclusive ONLINE BOUTIQUE

Vip Luxury Service is more than a lifestyle brand and much more than a simple e-commerce website; it is a Personal Buyer and a unique  Luxury Lifestyle partner delivering customized service experiences to its valued members, the most exclusive products and luxury services to HNWI.

By entering Vip Luxury Service Online Boutique,  members get access to luxury products and services researched by us and to the most exclusive shopping and luxury lifestyle experiences available internationally and on the web.

“At Vip Luxury Service, we claim to be different from any other e-commerce website: what we offer is an exclusive worldwide buying service for a discerning VIP clientele managed by our Luxury Lifestyle Consultants and Personal Shoppers, who have an active role in the process of selecting the luxury products and services to be featured online to our valued Members, thus presenting them to our élite clientele.”

Our Personal Shopper in Paris reveals LVHM Results

LVMH: 8% INCREASE IN REVENUE FOR THE FIRST NINE MONTHS OF 2013

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the world’s leading luxury products group, recorded revenue of €20.7 billion for the first nine months of 2013, an increase of 4% over thecomparable period in 2012. Organic revenue grew by 8%.

The Group also recorded an 8% rise in organic revenue for the third quarter. The Wines & Spirits and Watches & Jewelry business groups both accelerated their respective growth rates when compared to the first half of 2013. The performance of the other business groups was comparable to the start of the year. Europe has shown good resilience and the US and Asia continue to record strong growth.

The Wines & Spirits business group recorded organic revenue growth of 7% for the first nine months of 2013. Champagne experienced a rebound in the third quarter, driven by strong demand in the Asian and American markets, and its prestige brands made strong progress over the period. Hennessy cognac continued its good progress with solid volume increases combined with its firm pricing policy.

The Fashion & Leather Goods business group recorded organic revenue growth of 4% for the first nine months of the year. Louis Vuitton continues to implement its strategy of very high product quality and distribution excellence. The latest creations in leather goods have been very successful. Fendi continued to focus on fur and leather goods and its third quarter was marked by the opening of stores in Paris and Milan. Céline showed excellent momentum, supported by its leather goods and shoe lines. Other brands continued their development.

The Perfumes & Cosmetics business group registered organic revenue growth of 5% for the first nine months of 2013. Parfums Christian Dior continued its growth, fuelled by the performance of its iconic products and its innovations. The continued success of J’Adore and Dior Homme and the development of Rouge Dior makeup were among the highlights of the last quarter. At Guerlain, a new campaign was devoted to the iconic fragrance Shalimar while La Petite Robe Noire celebrated its first anniversary. Fresh, Benefit and Make Up For Ever continued to record good growth, particularly in Asia where the brands are expanding their distribution.

The Watches & Jewelry business group recorded organic revenue growth of 3% for the first nine months of 2013. The performance of LVMH in both watches and jewelry remains excellent in its own stores. Among other initiatives in the third quarter, Bulgari successfully launched the new high jewelry line Diva and TAG Heuer’s new movement manufacturing facility started its operations. All brands continued to expand their store networks around the world, helping to strengthen the quality of distribution.

The Selective Retailing business group achieved organic revenue growth of 19% for the first nine months of 2013. DFS sales are growing strongly, driven by the excellent performance of its Gallerias in Macao and Hong Kong and the integration for the first time this year of the activities of its three new Hong Kong airport concessions. Sephora continues to gain market share in key regions. Same-store sales growth was particularly strong in the United States and Asia. The expansion of the distribution network continues with several openings in the last quarter. Online sales are also experiencing rapid growth in all regions.

Outlook

Despite the uncertain economic environment in Europe, LVMH remains confident for 2013. The Group will continue its proactive strategy centered on innovation and targeted geographic expansion in the most promising markets. LVMH will rely on the power of its brands and the talent of its teams to further extend, in 2013, its global leadership in the luxury market.

 

Gucci Presents: “Bamboo Confidential”

The film was shot at The Savoy in London and gives us a glimpse into the brand’s history. Founder Guccio Gucci worked as a liftboy at the hotel and was inspired by London’s elite, who he saw coming and going between exotic destinations. This led to the beginning of his iconic leather goods company.

Our Personal Shopper unveils Saint Laurent Diamond Jewelry Line

Hedi Slimane is launching a new line of stunning diamond jewelry for the Parisian luxury house.

Titled ‘Saint Laurent Diamond,‘ Slimane’s latest jewelry collection features stunning modernist designs in gold, set with brilliant-cut diamond paving.

The hand-crafted jewelry line, which features rings and bracelets for men and women, follows “the tradition and savoir-faire spirit of Parisian joaillerie,” says the brand.

Customers have the choice of 18K gold or 18K white gold set with diamonds and according to Saint Laurent the collection will be “permanent and evolving.”

Our Personal Shopper in London reveals Burberry’s Travel Tailoring

Burberry has unveiled a new menswear offer — suits designed for men who travel. Burberry describes it as “a new type of tailoring,” with a focus on the travel consumer who wants to look sharp on the go.

The new suits feature “innovative lightweight construction” (the front panels of the suit), “lightweight shoulder construction,” and “naturally flexible fabrics.”

The trick is in the new “motion canvas” construction: the jacket’s interior structure has been redesigned with less wadding in the chest canvas while the shoulder has been rebuilt to better maintain its structure. The Italian Merino wool fabric also has a unique, “spring like” structure, resulting in more elasticity and less creasing. In short: it’ll retain its shape better in your suitcase, and look even better when you put it on in arrivals.

 

Our Fashion Stylist in Paris Reveals Givenchy SS2014 Collection

This is definitely a rapid succession of surprises from the Spring/Summer 2014 runways.

After Rick Owens’ performance, the unexpected new mood of Christian Dior, the visionary inspiration of Lagerfeld’s for Fendi and the Gianfranco Ferrè’s going back to basis, this is the time for a very different Riccardo Tisci.

The Givenchy S/S 2014 collection is a crush of two different cultures: Japanese and African. Unlike the past collection, this one experiment something new, as Mr. Tisci anticipated in the backstage “it was time to do something different”.

Dresses draped in different ways, deconstructed jackets, long skirts with deep slits in the front, overlaps of different lengths, combination of glossy and matte texture, these were the focal point of the first half of the collection.

The Japanese inspiration is shown in the Kimono suits with twisted lapels and flaring sleeves. The silhouettes of the suits are soft and comfortable: under the jacket comes out a medium length shirt on top of baggy pants, giving both casual and elegant image to the look.

The dresses in stretch jersey are draped in vertical and horizontal direction, some pieces have a one-shoulder asymmetrical cut and other have deep necklines, the manufacturing bras are exposed.

The first garments were jersey silk and cotton in ton on ton colors like black, deep blue, brown with just a touch of red and orange, and by the end they were awash in pastel embroidery, ethnical print or pleated and strewn with sequins changing quickly in a flashy look.

It’s a totally new territory for the Maison, but it seems to be a great start.

By Barbara Boni

Our Personal Shopper in Paris reveals Rick Owens SS2014

Everyone was speechless when new woman, powerful woman, come down the platform in place of usual ghostly, alien-thin models. Owens Spring-Summer collection wasn’t a fashion show, it was a real unconventional dance show.

What he want is creating a “new beauty” rejecting conventional channels. He Makes fashion accessible and human, and puts woman in control their selves giving self-confidence and fierce.

Not only the people chosen were unusual because of these issues but also their behaviour was completely unexpected on the podium of the catwalk.

Owens gets inspired by stepping -an hybrid of step dancing-, cheerleading and military drill, all discipline that are competitive and hard. On the runway there was dancer, selected from different sorority’s team, who performed in an exceptional stepping.

As everything that is out of common, this show cold be blameable but Rick Owens is established enough to do almost anything he wants, most of all if his show is tightly on point and visionary.

The collection instead was really stunning, and the attention should be on the designs rather then the dancer.

The clothing looks are functional, comfortable and flatly simple but sophisticated as Owen’s style, from the dusty shades of black, charcoal and stone, to the battered textures and drifting, slightly monumental shapes.

The shapes have been adapted to the movement and the physique of the individual, there are tunics that look like street-fight uniform, togas, chitons, corsets and shields. Besides shorts, tracksuits and T-shirts are cut with oversize generous proportion and stratified to obtain an armour and malleable effect.

Tops and shorts are made with the megaduchesse stiff, dense and thick woven cotton, that make them soft and adherents, silk turbogazar boiled leans slightly to the body giving movement’s effect and nappa washed suede allows manufacturing of light and sough shape.

Just one more thing, please don’t judge without seeing the video of show, images won’t be enough to understand Owen presentation.

 By Barbara Boni

Our Fashion Stylist in Paris reveals Christian Dior SS2014

A new era at Dior has begun.

With Raf Simons as the new creative director of the maison, the Christian Dior label is going in a totally new direction. The show is set in an enchanted garden between reality and fiction, inspired by the oneiric atmosphere of the White-Rabbit hole, that ended up in a world where – like Alice – Dior got topsy-turvy.

Mr Simons said “Christian Dior’s works started from nature: if nature can change, we can change the nature of things”, so he did it. He changes completely the DNA of the Maison. He transformed the silhouette, made flower print look acid and almost poisonous, and gave democracy to haute couture. There is a harmonious contrast between classic and innovative in his work that shows the respect for the past and at the some time the glimpse of the future: the bifurcated bar jacket that opened the show was the barest statement of interest.

The collection is all about volumes and appearances, like the Bar trouser suits, with the classic Dior silhouette, that hide in back a bustle of acid-floral-printed pleats. The strict canons shape of short skirts become now asymmetric and the black tulle reveals flowery bustier dresses. Even an otherwise classic shirtdress in grey wool becomes irreverent with metallic-pink bustier.

A remarkable attention to forms and colours is revealed in silk skirts that ballooned on the hips with able assistance from startling combination of green and light pink, orange and lilac.

In the collection some particular pieces are signs by Simons’ characteristic slogan embroidered all over dresses printed with hyper-real iteration of classic Dior flora.

The final parade was a sequence of black Bar suits and strapless silver jacquard dresses.

This collection has been defined “Trans-Dior” to underline the meaning of a “changing thoroughly” mood, a change that Raf Simons used to reach a new and different image of sophisticated wild women.